3: Trani

I always went to Trani, ten miles farther along the coast, full of pleasurable anticipation. Slightly smaller than Molfetta, like all the Adriatic coast towns, it leads a dual life, that of an ancient fishingport with a modern extension devoted to minor industries which have been introduced within the last twenty-five years. At Trani, however, one of the industries is an old one: it is a centre for the South Italian wine trade. The cathedral stands upon the most seaward point of the old harbour, rising against a background of sky and sea at the end of a huge and dignified piazza whose walls are washed by the Adriatic. It is unusual in these days to find so large an empty space in a town, and I was glad to have seen the elegant architecture of this lovely church rising from an acre of stone pavement uncluttered by a foreground of coaches and motor cars.

H. V. Morton 1969: A Traveller in Southern Italy. S. 131

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